The world of nail extensions is vast and extraordinarily complex. With so much to learn and so many assorted products to use, the industry provides conversion courses to become certificated in specific branded products. Let’s break down what options are available, there is an extension for every lifestyle.
Acrylic “liquid and powder”
Firstly, the most well-known form of nail extension. The extensions consist of placing a mixture of a polymer powder and a liquid monomer on the brush and applying it to the natural nail. It then hardens on the nail surface without any other components such as UV/LED lamp.
In general, elite nail professionals can create literally anything from this product. At Professional Beauty, the amazing Katie Barnes used a Rhi Rhi Nails It hand. As part of the seminar demonstration Katie created a sculpted long butterfly nail. Insane skills! Complete exhibition of the versatility of this product.
This treatment also gets a lot of press in equal proportions. Questions of:- Is it good for nails? Are the vapours too strong? Does it damage the nail? Importantly, companies create products made for purpose and nail damage is commonly a result of bad nail preparation from the professional.
Using high tech substances is a regular practice with nail enhancements. You may have heard the story of liquid and powder (acrylic) coming from dentists’ material. MMA (methyl methacrylate) is a monomer liquid still used for dental prosthetics. Needless to say, it will be rigid! Unmovable and unsuitable for a gentle fingernail. This liquid is not used as nail monomer.
Research wisely for your brand of choice, train well and practice!
Hard / Soak off gel
Secondly, is gel nails or gel extensions. The product is applied with a brush, dipped into a pot / jar. The gel is painted onto the nails and placed under UV/LED light to harden. On completion a tacky layer will be wiped from the top leaving a smooth, shiny glasslike nail.
Comparatively, gel extensions are normally made of a hard buff off compound, but the upgraded formulations give us soak off gels. Similarly, this provides a wrap removal like gel polish.
In addition to brands like NSI Balance, Light Elegance and IBX, Rhi Rhi Nails It enjoyed a 1:1 session to learn CND Brisa Lite. You can master the skill of understanding these products over time.
Many older gel systems require UV light to cure products. Since then, the world has adapted products to be cured under LED lighting. Always ensure you are using the product and light from the same system. Using products not tested by the manufacturer as a system will potentially cause service breakdown and will affect your insurance.
BIAB Builder in a Bottle
BIAB is the new sensation! But it’s not actually new as we just discussed in the previous gel section. Except that it’s now in a bottle. Builder gels are of thick consistency encouraging structure building of the natural nail or extension. Subsequently, it can be a hard or soak off formula.
BIAB is a smart choice for quick short strong extensions. With the brush and product in the same place it lends itself to the gel novice.
All the products discussed can create an extension via tips or sculpt. The tips, plastic shaped extensions glued to the nail edge. File blended for a smooth transition. Brands also make thin contact area tips which enables product to go straight over. Sculpting, however, is a trained skill and is sometimes a separate course at advanced level. This requires solid training and a lot of practice.
Side note – After having multiple encounters with clients who either wanted their extensions removed or had an extension removal and then needed a manicure treatment. When talking further about what extensions they had on, they had all requested “gel nail” or “gel extension”. A set of extensions were provided, called powder gel. Made from powder but not cured under UV light. The charge was the price of gel extensions, usually more than acrylic extensions. A powder-based product is an indicator that you are having a set of acrylics “powder and liquid” nails. Use this information as a guide with telltale signs of what type of nail enhancements you are receiving, make sure you are getting what you paid for!
Fibre glass / Silk
Lastly, this system is under the radar of popularity but can fix and extend many a nail. Made with fibres that have a high glass content which is complete definition of the name. You use the fibres and resin (glue) to moisten. Which in turn hardens the products. Incidentally, this extension system is incredibly soft and gentle, not for the hard handed. Really great for short nails or breakage fixes.
Meanwhile, silk is a similar system to fibre glass except you use silk material. To ensure systems like this are strong and durable they really need an overlay to seal the strength of the extension.
Conclusion
The natural nail flexes all the time. Using your hands means that the nails move. The flexibility of the overlay needs to match the client scenario. Mismatching product vs lifestyle is likely to cause nail plate lifting with the worst scenario, the loss of a nail plate.
Finally, ensure you train well with brands that have an extensive programme accredited by the nail industry insurance companies. Then round up your practice models. If you are the client, research each nail extension possibility fully and match it well to your personal lifestyle.